How can I make map labels easier to read?

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I'm currently working on a series of maps showing locations of certain types of archaeological finds in Norway. The map itself is a wms, so I really can't edit it (also - I like it). I'm doing the main part of the work in Adobe Illustrator.



The most important feature of the map are the farm names and icons. They are driving me nuts. The names are hard to read because of all the hills, rivers, lakes and coastlines. Can't really remove all that stuff. I can move some labels away from the most cluttered areas, but then it just looks more messy. And harder to tell what label belongs to what icon. Font can't really be any smaller.



I've added little squares with some opacity and feathering behind the labels and that did improve things a little bit, but not really enough. Anyone got any further suggestions here...?

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